Ask LH: How Do I Pick The Right Lens For My DSLR?

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Ask LH: How Do I Pick The Right Lens For My DSLR?

Dear Lifehacker, I’ve got a DSLR that came with a regular zoom lens. It’s fine, but I want to get a new lens or two so I can do more? How do I pick the right one? Sincerely, Optically Limited

Dear OL,

The lens you get when you buy a DSLR — generally a standard 18-55mm zoom — is designed for some level of versatility, but it doesn’t capture particularly sharp images, and it doesn’t have any special features. When you go to find a new lens, most of your options aren’t as versatile but handle specific things very well. Let’s go over what types of lenses you can get and why you would want them.

Learn the Lens Basics

Before we get into the various types of lenses, it’s important to know a few terms and basic ideas about lenses so that you can understand what they mean when you’re shopping around. Lenses are labelled like this: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. That designation tells you a lot but doesn’t mean much if you don’t know a few terms. In this section we’ll learn what you need to know to understand how lenses are labelled and what those labels mean.

Zoom Lenses vs Prime Lenses


Both zoom and prime lenses are designated by their focal length. Focal length is often measured in millimetres (mm) and designates the distance at which something is in focus. This definition doesn’t mean much practically speaking, so what you want to remember about focal distance is that lower numbers indicate a wider view (zoomed out) and larger numbers indicate a closer view (zoomed in). For example, if you’re photographing a small room in a house and you used an 18mm lens, you would likely capture the majority of the room in your image, while you would get very little of the room with an 85mm lens. Primes only have one focal length, and so they’re simply labelled as 35mm, 50mm and so on. Zooms offer a range, and so they’re labelled as 18-55, indicating that you can achieve a focal length as wide as 18mm, as close as 55mm and everything in between.

Aperture


You’re not stuck with a single aperture. When a lens is rated a nice, wide aperture like f/1.8 that just designates its maximum. You can change the aperture on your camera to a narrower aperture to allow less light. Why would you do this? Narrower apertures provide a greater depth of field, meaning that more of the image will be in focus. When you’re photographing a landscape, you want the entire image to be in focus and not just the part of the plane that your camera focused on. A higher, narrower aperture (f/12) provides that. A wider aperture (f/2.8) would make the landscape appear less sharp. That said, you don’t always want everything in focus. When taking a portrait, for example, wide apertures are wonderful because you can focus on a person and allow the background to blur away. As demonstrated in the example photo to the above right, the only things in focus are the aperture blades of the lens. A wider aperture made this possible.

Put it All Together

Now that you understand focal length and aperture, you can read lens titles and know what they mean. Let’s take the standard zoom lens you already have and break it down. Most likely it has a label of 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. You know the first part, 18-55mm, means the lens can capture a view as wide as 18mm and zoom in as close as 55mm. You know the second part, f/3.5-5.6, means that the lens has a maximum aperture of f/3.5 when zoomed out to 18mm and f/5.6 when zoomed in to 55mm. But what does that mean in practical use? For that you need to understand what different types of lenses can do.

Types of Lenses

Lenses have various designations based on their focal length. Generally speaking, a lens with a very wide field of view exaggerates depth and one with a narrow field of view flattens depth. Changing focal lengths, whether that’s by using a zoom lens or changing between different primes, allows you to achieve different affects with your photos. In this section we’ll discuss the common categories of lenses and what you can do with them.

Note: Each lens category will contain a range of focal lengths. If you own a standard DSLR camera, it likely has an APS-C sensor inside. APS-C sensors magnify focal lengths by approximately 1.6 times. That means a 50mm lens essentially becomes an 80mm lens (as 50 x 1.6 = 80). This is important because this magnification can potentially make a lens in one category into a lens in another category. Bear this in mind when shopping, unless you know your camera has a full-frame (35mm equivalent) sensor and the 1.6x magnification doesn’t apply to you.

Fisheye (12mm or less)


Wide Angle (18-30mm)


Standard (35-85mm)


Telephoto (100-300mm)


Super Telephoto (300mm or more)


Special Types of Lenses


Lens Baby

Special lenses can be a lot of fun, but since you’re just starting out, you’ll probably want to avoid them. They not only add more cost but more complexity to the process of capturing an image. When you’re purchasing lenses, start with the basics. Once you have more control over a regular lens, you’ll be able to do more with a lens that has a special feature (or two). If you want to learn more about the basics of photography, you should also check out our night school course. There’s a lot to learn, but you can pick it up quickly if you keep practising. The great thing about photography is that you can do it almost anywhere. Enjoy whatever new lens (or lenses) you choose and have fun testing their possibilities.

Cheers
Lifehacker

Photo by Andre Kuzmik (Shutterstock), Claire Gillman, bgrimmni, Todd Ryburn, Isaac Wedin, Fabian Ortiz and me..

Comments

  • i am looking at getting a lens for a gift for my GF. She already has a fisheye and loves it. i was thinking an all purpose lens like a 18 -270mm
    what do you think about those?

    • All purpose lenses are convenient, but their image quality suffers compared more dedicated lenses. They are good when starting out, to work out how your particular photography style works (and what limits that lens has for it). They are also good for situations where you can’t carry around a bunch of lenses. I’d aim for a slightly lower zoom range eg 18-125mm lens, it will be less optically compromised than a very large range lens.

    • The 18-270mm will be a great carry around lens, but if I could recommend stretching the budget a little and recommend getting her a relatively cheap 50mm prime f1.8 as well (I think they are around $100 for Canon).

      This lens made me super passionate about photography. It has a very wide range of apertures so you can get very creative with it (playing around with different depths of field), and the coolest thing I think about using prime lenses is you have to think when framing the shot, which leads to more creative shooting.

      • +1 for a 50mm lens. If she has a lower-end DSLR Which isn’t full frame, get a 35mm instead, as this is the equivalent of a 50mm on cameras with a smaller sensor. That “crop-factor” will also be a huge advantage for your general purpose lens, as getting the far superior 18-200 will give her a range of 27-300. 😀

    • Those lenses are fantastic for things like travel, where you’re shooting a variety of different things, and don’t want to carry too much. Keep mind that, generally, the broader the range of the lens, the less sharp the images will be. I’d recommend the 18-200. Great lens.

    • Honestly everyone says get a prime, but I say no. A good zoom should be the first port of call. They’re just much easier and simpler to use.

      Only get a prime when you have a specific use for it. And even then, the zoom can do the same job with a loss in quality that only a computer or an expert could see.

    • really need more info thn that…
      Id say 35 or 50mm is very safe bet (on a budget as well)

      all arounds…. if some gave it to me this days I would just put it on ebay pretty much without opening…. they just dont cut it and if you think they are good for traveling … sorry have to disagree… they are way to heavy to carry around all day and f stop on the longer range makes your dslr = point and shoot (quality wise)

  • “Focal length is often measured in millimetres (mm) and designates the distance at which something is in focus”
    This is wrong, Focal length is distance from the centre (optical) of the lens to the sensor/film.

    Also for note, a Fisheye lens is an uncorrected wide angle lens, They have not attempted to correct any distortion created from going so wide.

  • You don’t say what camera you have, but most likely it has a DX (or similar) sized sensor. This is slightly smaller than a full sized 35mm equivalent sensor (FX in the Nikon world, not sure if it’s the same for other makes). The following site is very Nikon centric, but it contains some wonderful information and, thankfully, can be a bit opinionated (I hate wishy washy reviews) – http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm#morelenses

  • I can’t recommend prime lenses enough. I bought the Canon f/1.8 50mm prime for $120 from Harvey Norman (after a bit of haggling) and it’s the best portrait lens I’ve ever used. The images are sharp yet smooth and the depth of field brings the right “focus” to the images. Only issue is I have to take a number of steps back to catch more than one person in the frame, and step RIIIIGHT back if I want to get a full body shot. But be aware that not all primes are cheaper, with some coming up to $2000 or more. http://goo.gl/JjGfs was shot with a prime (self portrait at arm’s length).

    If you want to do macro but don’t want to pay the price, check out extension tubes (also called Macro tubes) or the Reverse lens macro technique (http://stephenelliot.com/2007/05/15/reverse-lens-macro-photography-tutorial/ ). Both work really well (check out the reverse lens macro technique on the inside of a briefcase http://goo.gl/eH3uB ) and can save you thousands on a new lens. Yes it comes with a few pitfalls, but that’s what you get for free.

  • If you’re into Nikon lenses, I highly recommend Ken Rockwell’s reviews. I like his because they are no bull, they don’t talk techno babble, and he is a straight shooter. If he thinks a lens isn’t worth it, he will tell you. He also makes his compromises (aka. biases/prejudices) very clear. They normally involve cost/sharpness/low light performance/weight and what the lens will bring to the party if you have other lenses… http://www.kenrockwell.com/

    • sorry but Ken got no idea what he is talking about (he lives in his own world and till recently was preaching that D40 is the best camera ever) some statements that he makes are really ‘out of it’

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