Cheese Mayo Is The Condiment You Need To Make 

Photo: Claire Lower

When it comes to burgers, I prefer to keep things simple. A thin, smashed patty; a good melty cheese; maybe a little onion, tomato and pickles. I don’t need fried eggs, avocado or super thick bacon. I am, however, very into the idea of cheese mayonnaise, which frankly streamlines my already simple burger even further.

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Cheese mayo is exactly what it sounds like — mayonnaise with cheese blended into it.

Created by Chef Chris Kronner for his extremely extra Kronnerburger (it comes with bone marrow), the cheesy sauce was designed to complement the Kronner’s dry-aged patty, rather than obscure it.

It also keeps everything nice and creamy; mayo doesn’t congeal like a slice of cheddar would.

Of course, my mind immediately started to tweak Kronner’s original recipe, which led to me and my managing editor absolutely yelling at each other (in a good way) about cheese and mayo over Slack. Before we get to mods, however, let’s talk about the original sauce. To make it, you will need:

  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
  • ¾ teaspoon mustard powder
  • ¾ teaspoon sea salt flakes
  • 1 cup vegetable or other neutral oil
  • 85g grated aged sharp white cheddar (I used yellow cheddar because it’s what I had)

I prefer to make mayo with my immersion blender (the Food Lab way), so I poured everything except the cheese into a tall plastic cup, adding the oil last by gently pouring it down the side of the cup.

I then inserted the head of the blender all the way to the bottom, turned it on high, and let the blades pull the oil down, before gently moving the head up and down inside the cup to emulsify everything into mayonnaise.

I then transferred the mayo to the food processor, added the cheese, and let the blades do their thing.

The result was a mayo with very slight pimento-cheese vibes and hints of deviled egg filling. It’s great on a burger, yes, but I think it does wonderful things to a bacon and tomato sandwich.

The recipe says the batch will last two weeks in the fridge, but I don’t foresee it lasting that long. I guess it’s a good thing, then, that I made a funkier, smokier version alongside it.

Blue cheese schmaltz mayo (Photo: Claire Lower)

As we’ve discussed before, you can incorporate other, more exciting fats into your mayonnaise, provided you mix them with a neutral oil such as vegetable, grapeseed or safflower oil.

With cheese mayo, you can mess around with both the fat and the cheese. I settled on schmaltz and blue cheese, and I have not experienced a single negative emotion about my choices.

The flavours of both the chicken fat and blue cheese were prominent, resulting in a spread that was almost like a meaty blue cheese dressing — but, you know, spreadable. To make it yourself, you will need:

  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
  • 3/4 teaspoon mustard powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon sea salt flakes
  • 1/4 cup schmaltz, melted but not hot
  • 3/4 cup vegetable or other neutral oil
  • 85g crumbled blue cheese, such as gorgonzola

Make the mayo as described above, making sure to gently pour the fats on top of the other ingredients before blending it all with an immersion blender.

Add the blue cheese and blend in a food processor until completely smooth.

Paint your burgers, club sandwiches and life with it. Dip your fries in it. Make a potato salad with it. Be happy.

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