Shoot Better Nighttime Pictures

Oh yeah almost forgot, while I'm at it, anyone have a preference for Online Photo Printing services. I like uploading Photos to Picasa, but just don't know which one to go with.

Choppasmith

Great advice!

I just got myself a Canon SX110IS when I previously had a dinky little Kodak 4MP Easy Share which took HORRIBLE Night Pictures. I'm still a bit of a camera n00b, but I'll be sure to keep these photo tips in mind.

Choppasmith

@Jack:
Try this site strobist.blogspot.com

Geloky

@[www.amazon.com]

joeny1980

@Jack: I got the opportunity to work with DJ Ladez on a photoshoot, he is owner of Lumedyne and renowned lighting expert. He has some great expert instructionals on using a flah on his youtube:
[www.youtube.com]

joeny1980

@Joseph Smrekar: Unless you're printing a poster from your image, I would be comfortable with 800 ISO - but this is for casual shots. If you want a real nice nightshot dont play with the ISO, keep it low - but stabilize the camera and keep the shutter OPEN for as long as you're able to. Tripods are great, but who carries them?? Find a bench, a mailbox, whatever.

The beauty of night photography comes thru when you are able to keep your shutter open and allow light that you dont even see to start making your image pop.

I have a nice example of a 5 second exposure (stabilized on the back of a bench) on my photoblog: [accidentalcliche.blogspot.com]

joeny1980

@Guitarfool5931: High ISO in my view is when you want to take a non flash photo of your girl inside the restaurant.

I shoot film so my recommendations are a bit more generic.

Toss out your light meter and set it to manual.

Commit the Ultimate Exposure Computer to memory (or at least print it out or something.

You probably also want to use a good high iso film (or digital setting) Personally I love slide film but it's usually a bit too slow for this technique without a tripod or an insanely fast lens (like a 1.4) In my experience, Elite Chrome 100 is fantastic if you want to use a tripod but if you're shooting handheld, try starting with some Ultra MAX 800 or Superia Xtra 800 to start with and go from there.

Above all, have fun!

@89macrunner:

I've heard the D700 has some great higher ISO results. I haven't tried it for myself yet though. I'm sure you can still see some noise at the higher resolutions you're talking about but it might be one of the lesser ones available right now.

Night time is my favorite time to shoot and I use a Nikon D40x with a 1.4 Aperture Lens. Great lens

Guitarfool5931

@avmaldo: not if you're shooting 15 second exposures. "Get a tripod" really is the single best tip.

corneliuscrab

@TheFu: Nothing much you can do about the noise except try to clean it up with Neat Image or something. The camera isn't capable of more than it's capable of.

Tiny cameras have noisy sensors but a Canon Elph with the CHDK hack would let you override the automatic mode and take manual long exposures.

corneliuscrab

For compact cameras, the Fuji F30 and F31fd were (and still are) renowned for their low light abilities. Unfortunately, in subsequent series revisions, Fuji sacrificed this performance for the sake of adding more pixels (the 30 and 31 are 6 megapixel cameras).

Fortunately, the few reviews I've skimmed seem to indicate that with the latest camera in the F series, the 200-something-or-other (three letters), the low light capability may be making a comeback. The camera has a higher mega-pixel count, but supposedly offers enhanced low light capabilities in a lower resolution mode (at 6 MP) via "pixel-binning" -- combining the results from multiple pixels. I hope this is true. I have an F31fd and it takes some great low light pictures. (You do have to set it to manual and adjust settings to achieve optimal results; fortunately, the LCD screen provided relatively decent feedback.)

PasBesoin

I did research on this one. Best low-light P&S compact are Fujifilm's Finepix F-series models, namely the F30/F31fd, F100fd, F200EXR. None of Canon's, Sony, or Nikon were able to match it's low-noise hi-ISO setting. Not in terms of DSL-R but 1 or 2 stops better than the competing brands.

bayonetta.x

Argh... I have an 8.2MP Kodak which is terrible in the dark.

Interesting tips. I have a point and shoot (Canon A1000IS) but it has a night scenery mode. I haven't had a good subject to try it on yet, though.

@TheFu: If you don't have a manual mode, you will need to force the camera to ake as long an exposure as possible. The only way to to this is to turn off the flash.

When you do this, you'll need to use a tripod, or set the camera on a stable surface.

And use the self timer so that you don't shake the camera when you push the shutter button.

Scott Messinger

@Horusz: Agreed, the smallest of movements will ruin the shot because of blurriness. Even a mini tripod will do in some situations. Also, ISO-100-400 does a wonderful job, I don't think I would go above that. Although ISO 1600 isn't anywhere near as bad on those cameras as it is on point and shoot's, I would rather keep it low and wait a bit longer for a better picture.

Also be sure to pay attention to what your camera is telling you about the exposure time and aperture. It'll show you whether your settings are poor and how you should adjust them for the perfect shot.

_Marek_

@daqman:
You need to make an Instructable on that one... unless you are in the arctic circle...

mac_daddy

I found a great shirt pocket size Panasonic Luminx with wide angle glass lens, modes and easy to use manual settings at a discount store for $99.00. I use it for my real estate business and lots of low light interior shots and for panoramas. Recently used it to take 1100 portraits in 3 days on a central American mission trip. I love it! Might work for you.@TheFu:

deanes

@Joseph Smrekar: Absolutely, I'd rather not go over 400 ISO, that's where I usually draw the line.
And a tripod is vital indeed.

Horusz

@TheFu: I shot with a Canon PNS well before my upgrade to a dSLR. I chose a Canon because they typically offer camera with more "manualish" features. It may have changes in 5 years, but the Powershot line typically was a little friendlier to creativity unlike the ELPH series which is very limited in your ability to control anything. Check out www.dpreview.com

Shooting landscapes and things that don't move too much: use a tripod, shoot for a second or two, and set the camera to a 2-second delay (so your hand firing the shutter doesn't rattle the camera.)You'll get vibrant, often surreal color.

For shooting people: use the on-board flash and set a 1/4 sec exposure length (drag the shutter.) This results in lively, dynamic shots with great light streaks, but a well exposed subject. Example: [bit.ly]

@andrewbash: If you are doing that, also think about "rear curtain sync" for the flash--means the flash goes off at the end of the exposure rather than the beginning. Does two useful things--allows details in the background to burn in a little better from ambient light and it means that motion blur gets frozen at the end, which looks more natural.

AmphetamineCrown

@greenbot: i have one of those too but i wouldn't put that in the same context as an inexpensive camera. it is one of the most expensive point and shoots available and because of the extremely high demand it sells for much more than MSRP which is already $500 (i got lucky and nabbed mine way back in december for around $400).

fantastic camera nonetheless though.

Dan Seifert

I have yet to see ISO1600 pictures that REALLY impress me at high resolution. Shrunk down for the internet they look good, but not when you want to start going with large prints.

Have some patience!

I recently sold a few prints (my first sale!!) of a night shot of Pittsburgh.

With a above average lens (Tamron 28-75) and my 40D, I get some REALLY great shots.

Lower your ISO, stop up your glass, and use slooww shutter speeds (25-30seconds).

Try that and see what kind of shots you will get!

89macrunner

You don't necessarily need a tripod, just find a solid object to set your camera on. Works great and can save a shot when you don't have a tripod. Also, if your flash has settings dial them WAY down, like as low as they go.
Experiment with how much power versus your distance to the subject. People just let the flash do what it will which usually obliterates anything but your subject in low light situations.

Or just have really really steady hands, with long exposure.

avmaldo

For landscapes/cityscapes, a tripod is a must. You can get really cheap lightweight tripods anyway for about the same price a memory card costs.

For portraits, invest in a cheap prime lens like the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8. Way faster than a kit lens, and really light and portable too. And cheap.

Alejandro

@polobunny: Flash can certainly be abused, but for people shots at night it's invaluable. A good flash, anyway, not a built-in P&S flash.

Alejandro

@fjpoblam: P.S., That's saying alot!

@daqman: Thanks! That's the most joyful chortle I've had for *two* days!

I have a $200 SONY point and shoot with ISO-1200, but all the night time photos turn out extremely grainy. There is no manual mode.

What can I do to get better photos when it is dark, short of buying a new camera?

If buying a new camera is the only solution, which point and shoot will support good, not excellent, night time photos? The camera needs to fit into a dress shirt pocket. A Cannon A590 is too large.

TheFu

@Jack: Use a small aperture to minimize the blown out, flat look of the flash, and a slow shutter speed to get more of the surroundings. If you can, Use the flash off camera.

Best way to shoot night time pictures?

Wait until it goes dark...

daqman

@saintseminole:

I set up our camera on a tripod with a 3 second timer and 3 shot repeat to capture venus and the moon last winter... amazing shot from our Cannon Powershot digicam.

I'll never shoot nighttime without a tripod again.

You don't need to break the bank for decent camera gear. I've got a Panasonic LX3 and it's fantastic for taking night pics. Fast lens, manual controls, and a bit of creativity is all you need.

greenbot

Good tips, but yes "huge wallet" (from above comment) is very helpful too.

For instance, wider aperture lenses (f/1.8, f/1.2, etc.) are usually more expensive, but will help *greatly* with night shots, especially if you're trying to get a portrait.

For city-scapes, landscapes, etc., it's almost always best to use a tripod, a long exposure at low ISO, and a remote shutter release (either cable or wireless).

(Disclaimer: I shoot photos for a living.)

"If you've got something like the Canon T1i, Nikon D300, or Nikon D90"
Or
"If you've got a huge wallet, taking photos at night wouldn't be a problem for you"
Personally, I set my camera into manual and set it to around 1sec iso 800 and usually I can pull off a relatively clear shot(after taking like 8 shots) and I'll just touch up the raws. Nice tips though :)

@rudeadly: HELL yea to that!!!

Bobby Champagne

@Jack: strobist.com

changed my life!

@Jack: Not using it is the best solution. Alternatively, not too close to subject or reflect the light off something.

polobunny

Using flash properly is an art. I certainly cannot do it. Any tips from a viable source on how to use flash would be appreciated.

actually color noise at 1600 on those cameras is not cool. Best bet is a timed exposure on a tripod at 1-200 ISO. Issues of movement can arise. There really is no perfect solution.

This is assuming you want to print an 8x10 or 16x20.

Joseph Smrekar